Lingerie Through History - A Fashion School Guide to the Agony and Ecstasy of Undergarments

Lingerie today has a certain mystique. For many people, it's seen as romantic and sexy, worn on special occasions and given as gifts on Valentine's Day and anniversaries. But this has not always been the case. Through the ages, lingerie has alternated between utilitarian and aesthetic, from accentuating a woman's figure to hiding it, and from being oppressive to liberating. From an academic fashion school perspective, we can see that the fluctuating role of undergarments has mirrored fashion trends, as well as how society has defined beauty.

Antiquity: The earliest record of women wearing undergarments is from Egypt circa 3000 B.C. Only noblewomen were allowed to wear it; slaves and servants wore loincloths, or were naked underneath. While underwear served as a status symbol in Egypt, they were used to flaunt the body in ancient Greece. On the island of Crete in 2000 B.C., women wore a boned corset tightly around their midriffs so that their breasts would jut out conspicuously.

Medieval times: The desired look for women in Medieval times was a boyish figure, so corsets were worn not to accentuate the breasts as in Greece, but to flatten the chest and hips to hide the feminine figure.

The Elizabethan era: The corset changed once again, as the Elizabethans favored the hourglass figure. Now it exaggerated the breasts as well as the hips, with the insertion of whalebone for extra rigidity.

18th Century: The reigns of Louis XV and XVI are considered a gilded age of fashion design, and the centerpiece of many of the fashions was the corset. No longer worn just as undergarments, corsets were so fashionable that they were displayed on the outside of the dress. A thing of beauty, they were decorated with ribbons, lace and embroidery.

The Victorian era: Although we think of the Victorian era as a time of sexual repression and prudishness, lingerie evolved considerably during these years. Some of the innovations were the first corset that allowed women to put it on or take it off from the front by themselves; the first elastic corset, which provided more comfort; the frilled pantaloon; stockings; and garter belts. The Victorian era also introduced the idea of lingerie as foreplay. Taking the numerous layers off took a considerable amount of time, creating sexual tension and anticipation. Therefore, the mere sight of even a garter was an aphrodisiac.

World War I: When the Great War broke out, the U.S. government asked women to stop buying corsets so there would be more metal available for the war effort. This initiative resulted in enough surplus metal to build two battleships. The war also led to more women joining the workforce in factories; corsets were impractical for work. Fortunately, a woman named Mary Phelps Jacob, unhappy with the restrictive nature of corsets, had invented the brassiere, and women were immediate converts.

The Roaring 20s: With the flapper look everywhere, women wanted boyish figures to go with the skinny dresses. Brassieres were made to flatten the chest, and although constricting corsets were out, the introduction of the girdle continued the long tradition of tight undergarments.

The Great Depression and World War II: In the 30s, bosoms were back. Instead of flattening the chest, brassieres enhanced them, as the idea of "cup size" was introduced. Latex was also invented during this period, allowing bras to fit women better than ever.

The swinging 60s and 70s: With the rise of the hippie and women's movement, lingerie, and especially bras, became a symbol of conformity and restrictions. Bra burning was a sign of the times, and many lingerie companies went out of business. One piece of underwear that did become a big hit was the bikini brief, thanks to the hottest items in fashion design, mini skirts and hot pants.

Today: Fashion is more diverse than ever in the 21st century, and so is lingerie. Bras are padded, cupless, water-filled, air-filled, strapless, plunging, underwired, invisible, halter, you name it. And when it comes to lingerie that's a bit more aesthetic than practical, the choices are dizzying, especially for the person buying it for a significant other. Thongs, teddies, baby doll nighties and g-strings come in every color and style imaginable. And lingerie is even acceptable businesswear, with bustiers and camisoles right at home under a jacket.

Through the years, lingerie may have changed. But it has always been important in shaping women's bodies, and their place in society.